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Willy Wonka Workwear

September 2, 2014
by

So this jacket is a long time coming.  First I just put off making it (I went through two whole rounds of my 10 project queue before forcing myself to work on it!), then I decided to learn some new “tailoring” tricks, and then I moved and didn’t work on it for a good two weeks.  But it’s done, it’s finished, and I’m super proud of it.  And I feel like the coolest girl woman in school the office, because I am*

Also, check out my new backyard.  It's ok, you can be jealous.

Also, check out my new backyard. It’s ok, you can be jealous.

Pattern: BurdaStyle 03/2013 101 and 102 (it’s the same pattern, just variations of itself… same with #103)

Fabric:  Purple (faux) stretch suede and polyester satin, all leftovers from other projects!  The stretch suede is from my mom and I’m really liking it a lot, it was easy to sew (the nap is too short to make any difference in direction) and comfortable to wear.  I feel like it adds to the professional look of the jacket too, but maybe that’s just me.  The satin is from my wedding dress muslin.

Mr. Husband offered to take the pictures (suspicious), so most of the ones I got were of me talking... At least he took a ton like I asked!

Mr. Husband offered to take the pictures (suspicious), so most of the ones I got were of me talking… At least he took a ton like I asked!

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So you know how a lot of people say their cats know good fabric and like to sit on the good stuff more? Ya, Spot likes the cheap stuff… this satin is really bad, it runs like crazy if you stab it wrong with the needle, but she loves it.  I think I’m going to make her a bed out of the last scraps.

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Design Likes/Dislikes:  I like the clean lines of this jacket, it’s mostly traditional but with some interesting darts in front with a horizontal extension (that are supposed to be covered by pockets).  I’m not sure about the button placement though.  There is room for a third button so I could add it later, but it doesn’t feel weird when I’m wearing it… does it look weird?  Mr. Husband pointed the buttons out right away, thinking I’d missed one.  Pattern #101 had 3/4 length sleeves, but I used the full length sleeves from #102.  In retrospect, the 3/4 sleeves would have been cute and practical since I push/roll my sleeves up constantly.

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Sizing and Fit:  Burda magazine patterns have always fit me really well, good thing too since I have so many of them!  So this jacket is my “wearable muslin” sortof, but I was pretty confident going in that fit would not be an issue.  The sleeves are kindof long and baggy feeling though.  I don’t think they look bad at all, but I’d probably reduce them a little if I make this again.

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I learned a lot while making this jacket.  I’ve made jackets before, but I’ve never taken the time to “tailor” them beyond the recommended interfacing.  I bought Gertie’s Starlet Suit Jacket class (now retired so no link for you) from Craftsy back when it first came out (I waited for a sale of course, because they have 50% off sales constantly) and finally got around to using it.  Obviously I did not use Gertie’s pattern, frankly I don’t like the way her clothes look most of the time, like they’re not pressed well enough or something, and they’re not my style at all.  But half the course was about fusible tailoring!  So that was really nice to see someone make a roll line with fusible interfacing and I really liked her sleeve cap method using a strip of bias strip.

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I stopped following Gertie’s course after completing the outer layer of the jacket though.  My jacket has a different collar (notched) than Gerite’s, so to attach that I turned to my Threads archive.  Issue #68 has an article, “The Foolproof Notched Collar” by Jan Schoen, but it wasn’t extremely helpful.  Then I switched to Jen of Grainline Studio’s tutorial on bagging a jacket.  Straight up MAGIC.  She seriously needs to put out a jacket pattern because the lady definitely knows what she’s doing.  I also took some of Jen’s interfacing advice about what location needed extra support on coats and jackets.  Next time I’ll probably follow this more closely because I really should have interfaced the lapel facings.

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Changes:  Other than not following the Burda directions (useless) and combining two variations of this pattern I didn’t change anything.  Oh I guess I left off the pockets; pockets are nice, but I like pockets in pants more than pockets in jackets.

For Next Time:  It would probably be a good idea to test the sleeve fit before making my next jacket, no matter which pattern.  I’m really happy with this jacket over all though, there isn’t much I’d do differently!  Now I just need a top hat, a bow tie, and a floral vest and I can be Willy Wonka for Halloween!

~Molly

*sarcasm. But really, there are only 3 women out of 30+ engineers in my office so it’s not that hard…

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7 Comments leave one →
  1. September 2, 2014 8:13 am

    I think rabbits are less picky. My rabbit, Lala, decides he has to sit on every piece of fabric especially if I am pinning something.

  2. Bia permalink
    September 2, 2014 5:18 pm

    Wonderful! The color is great, the jacket looks great.

  3. September 3, 2014 1:52 am

    Looks like you nailed the notched collar. The sleeves look ok to me, I was wondering if the roominess you mentioned comes from the back of the jacket as there seems to be a little extra fabric across there. But then that gives you mobility so perhaps you wouldn’t want to remove it. Anyway, it looks lovely and the buttons are definitely fine like that.

  4. September 3, 2014 3:11 pm

    I really like it! I think it fits well. Especially as a fellow tundra-dweller. You will definitely be able to put it over something more substantial than a cardigan or tshirt which is nice. Or will be when it’s -24F with 40 mph winds…

    My cat never ever ever tried to come near my fabric. I wanted her to become my sewing buddy 😦 I miss Kitten!!!

    Totally glad you linked to this pattern. I have several ‘fun’ jackets planned but really need a lined “tailored” jacket too.

  5. September 5, 2014 6:13 pm

    Aw, there’s nothing cuter than a kitty curled up sleeping peacefully… My cat doesn’t discriminate between the cheap and expensive stuff; he prefers whatever I need to use in a given moment. And if it’s canvas or similar, he’ll pee on it. I have no idea why, but his previous owners warned us ahead of time. Anyway! Your jacket looks great! Everything looks very sharp and crisp. Will you be wearing it with sweaters and bulkier garments when it gets colder? The sleeves might come in handy then.

    I’m currently in “avoid jacket project” mode so it’s inspiring to see your finished project 🙂

  6. October 16, 2014 8:37 pm

    My cats like the kind of fabric I leave out in the open. Not that there’s a huge difference in quality of fabric – Walmart is my favorite fabric store. I’m a glutton for ‘name that fabric.’

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